Brasov is a city within a city; the modern outer shell insulates the nucleus of the old town. This stark contrast of old and new is threaded throughout Brasov in its architecture, its people and its many attractions.
The Black Church
Perhaps Brasov's most famous attraction, and certainly its most infamous, is the Black Church (Biserica Neagra). It takes its name from the fire of 1689 which blackened its walls and destroyed much of the city. This is just part of the church's complex and sometimes grisly history. A small statue on the North Buttress tells the story of another element of the church's dark past. The statue depicts a boy leaning over the edge of the roof; it is said to represent an apprentice who was pushed off the roof to his death by a jealous worker. The statue was erected by other workers in the child's memory.
There are lighter elements to the church though, most notably in the collection of Anatolian carpets which adorn the interior and provide colour. The church also has a 4,000-pipe organ, one of the largest in Europe. In the summer months organ concerts are held at 6 p.m. throughout the week and are definitely worth attending at least once to experience the organ music filling the spacious inner church with sound.
Walled Fortifications and Bastions
In the Middle Ages Brasov was vulnerable to attacks, especially from raiding Turks, so walled fortifications were erected around the perimeter of the city. The walls were interspersed with bastions which were maintained by the different guilds of the city, such as the Blacksmiths and Weavers. Though the city has now spread far beyond these medieval defences, parts of the fortifications remain. Visitors can see for themselves the solid strength of the two-metre-thick walls which once confined the city. Seven bastions also still stand, though they are no longer used for defence. Some house the work of local artisans; such as the Ropemaker's Bastion (Bastionul Franghierilor) where the tradition of ropemaking is still carried on by Mrs Neuvirt, who creates and sells artwork made from hemp rope.
For more information on the defences visitors can go to the Weaver's Bastion which is now a museum on the history of the fortifications, one of its best pieces is the scale model of Brasov as it was in 1600.
White and Black Towers
The White and Black Towers sit beyond the walls and higher up the hills above the old town. The towers, both in fact white, were built as watch towers in the 15th century, again to defend against raiding Turks. Both towers are open to the public and are a short but steep walk from the centre of the old town. The views across the city, especially from the White Tower, make the climb worth while.
Mount Tâmpa
For an even better view head up Mount Tâmpa. Towering above the city, with its lit up Hollywood style Brasov sign acting as a beacon and navigation point, the mountain offers the best views of the city and the surrounding countryside. There is a scenic cable car ride to the top or for the more active there are walking tracks that zig zag across the mountain. However you choose to make it up there it's a must see when visiting the city.
Str Republicii
Republicii is a pedestrianised street running off Piata Statului, the main square of the old town. Republicii is central for eating, shopping and nightlife. The shops range from tacky Dracula-themed souvenier shops to designer fashion boutiques. The street is spattered with restaurants serving every type of food; Italian, Mexican, American and even traditional Romanian. Most double up as bars, such as Mado, which serves excellent ice cream sundaes during the day and a variety of cocktails and other alcoholic beverages into the night.
For a more unusual nightlife experience visit Bingo Postavarul. It's a bar and lounge but also, as the name suggests, a Bingo Hall. Yet, there is no smiley caller in a sparkly jacket jovially declaring that he's got two fat ladies. They take their Bingo seriously here with people playing until three in the morning. It's worth visiting just for the surreal factor, and of course, in the hope of winning some money.
These are only a few of Brasov's many attractions. There is more to discover in the vibrant city whose draw is in the streets of the old town, which ooze history, and the domineering presence of the Carpathian mountains.
Victoria Richman - An experienced, versatile writer with particular focus on the topics of conservation and travel.
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